. . . s w i t z e r l a n d . . .
heavenly . lush green swiss alps . glistening lakes . fertile farmland . rustic cabinj o u r n a l | August 10, 2019 We arrive to Switzerland yesterday & I fell in love already, both of us. The country is GRAND. I have never seen views so stunning and spectacular. Even the rides on the trains take your breath away - snowcapped, lush green mountainscapes, lined with glistening blue lakes fill your picture windows. We just came from Croatia where it was hot and the water was cold & the warmth felt so good on our skin. I loved feeling golden (tan) and getting dressed up to go out every night. But this, this is a different feeling. The cool mountain air - grandness of the mountains & hidden chalets & farm villages in the timberline - makes me feel free. It makes me feel alive & at home.
Switzerland became our favorite stop on our trip. We chose it because we both have a strong heritage there and wanted to get acquainted. We did indeed find lots of resemblances in the culture that resembled the one we grew up in and it was enlightening! The people are practical and skilled farmers and artisans, yet plain and reserved; still very kind. Their culture ran systematically and quietly, and was incredibly clean and well taken care of.
We were just breathtaken by the landscape in Switzerland, the whole aura of color and cool air. We LOVED the connection to the farmland, sheep and cows grazing free range in the mountaintops in summer - the dairy and meat products were incredibly fresh and rich - surely a reflection of the black fertile soil, fresh mountain water and cool climate that put little stress on livestock - And of course their high standard of quality! We were so thankful to be able to stay in the mountains in a small local town with a wonderful host who helped us get acquainted with the local culture.
We would return here in a heartbeat.
i t i n e r a r y
...ideas for a local, relaxed schedule, mountainside experience (with a little hiking & adventure)..
D A Y 1 | 11am Arrive to Basel Airport
Stopped by Lucerne via train to View Mt Pilatus by Cable Car/ Cogwheel Train
Took Train to Meiringen to our Accommodation (Arrived by 6:30pm)
D A Y 2 | Enjoyed the Morning in the Cabin
Visited Interlaken (had lunch, paragliding was cancelled due to weather)
D A Y 3 | 5:30am Sunrise Hike from our Cabin to Swarzwaldorph (4 hours)
9:30am Breakfast at small Mt hotel down the trail from our cabin
Visited Lautterbrunnen (Took Cable car to Murren, ate lunch, walked to Gimmewald)
D A Y 4 | Lazy Morning in Cabin
Explored Meiringen and Local Shops, Deli, Meat Market, Wool Shop
Packed up and headed back to Basel for morning flight.. . . l u c e r n e
We would be passing by Lucerne on our way to where we were staying so we made a pit stop to explore this city known for it's glistening lakes and views.
At the train station we were able to put our luggage in lockers (very easy, just requires coins, price is for 24 hrs) and go on our way.
We caught a local bus to the bottom of Mt. Pilatus where we took the cable car up. It was a LOVELY quiet ride (just the two of us in our car), and a clear sunny afternoon. The scene was nothing short of stunning. Along the way we got off to cath another cable car where there were shops and activities for families (zip lining, tube sliding, playgrounds, etc). At the top was a beautiful hotel & restaurant. We spent some time there viewing and then took the cogwheel train back to the bottom. (The steepest cogwheel train in the world). 
t r a n s p o r t a t i o n . . .
b u s + t r a i n sWe were told that the bus and train system is very efficient in Switzerland and it is true! We chose to use this as our primary transport. Because we are country folks, it always takes a minute for us to get acquainted with how a cities transportation system works, (I've navigated NYC and India's public transport), but with a few questions from very friendly staff we were on our way! Swiss trains run extremely dependably, like clockwork. Their systems make sense and are very easy to navigate once you understand it. I highly recommend using this mode when you go, as it is probably the easiest way to get around and an experience you shouldn't miss!t r a i n s | Ticket Options - You can get a 1). travel pass or 2). half fare card or 3). buy individual tickets for each ride.
We decided to buy individual tickets, comparing the price of the pass/ half fare amount with our itinerary and how many trips we thought we'd take. In the end, we took more trips than we anticipated and a Travel Pass would have been the way to go! (The initial amount seems high, but with the discounts you get on local activities it would be well worth it). Even though you can buy these tickets/passes online before you go, I recommend doing it in the train station as the price will be the same and you won't have to worry about your schedule or plans changing. Also, if you're just not sure which route to go - there is an office for tourists in each major train station that is set up to help you with these decisions (they are incredibly accommodating to tourists - one lady helped me add up my trips and make my decision - she also gave me a map & directions to our first bus stop, tickets, change for the lockers, etc). You can get your travel pass or half fare card here. Individual tickets can easily be bought at a kiosk in the train station (ask for help the first time if you have trouble understanding it or reading the schedule charts).
s b b a p p | I recommend downloading the SBB app to find out which train or bus/ route you need and platform locations in real time. Your ticket will not tell you which platform to go to (it will say on the screen before you print your ticket if you catch it, otherwise you can use the SBB app or ask a friendly train staff).
1st or 2nd Class | 2nd Class has general seating structure like a bus (two by two on each side of aisle), is not air conditioned, has smaller windows and is generally full of people depending where you're headed. 1st class is spacious, has tables that fold down (we often got food in the train station and enjoyed a meal while we travelled on trips that were usually an hour or longer), is air conditioned, has big open windows for viewing and is generally quieter with less people. After our first ride we decided on using 1st class for all our trips (it was not that much more expensive and was just SO MUCH more pleasant & scenic - this is what you'll see in the pictures here). But there is nothing wrong with 2nd - it is still clean and people are generally quiet and friendly.
b u s e s | Buses run similarly to trains. You can get tickets at kiosks in the train station or with staff. Sometimes the kiosk is outside the station where you will catch the bus on the roadside. You can find out which bus you need and where to get it on the SBB App. Buses are named by number according to the Line they run (ex. Line 50) and the place of their last stop is noted. If you are going to Plaid St you may get on a bus that is noted Lake St East (because that is the last stop on the route to Plaid St.). You will need to watch the screen in the bus and make sure you get off at your stop (Plaid St.). They give a list of the upcoming streets/ stops, so it is easy to see if you're watching. You will need to push a button to let the driver know you want him to stop there (a few seconds before you get there). If all else fails you can yell to the driver that you want off - they are usually willing to talk and help you if you have questions. In small towns you can pay for a bus ticket to the driver when you get on or off. Switzerland is where our precious Bernese Mountain Dogs originate. They were bred in the Bernese Oberlands to pull carts with milk cartons down the mountain for farmers. It’s no wonder why our girls love snow so much! We met several including this one below in the train station.
w h e r e w e s t a y e d . . .
Wollhaus OberzwirgiWe lucked out when it came to our accommodation in Switzerland. I wanted so badly to stay in a private cozy little cabin in the mountains but could not find ANY when looking at traditional listing sites including Airbnb and Homeaway/ VRBO. With some fervent digging and bunny trails from Pinterest photos, I found a Swiss site that offered chalet (the word they use for cabin) rentals. The website had minimal information and slow correspondence but had exactly the experience we were looking for! I took the risk and booked Wollhaus and it ended up making our entire trip! So I will so kindly share it with you here (see references at bottom) (;P). Our hosts were a lovely local couple who were sheep farmers. Ruth and a friend of hers (who helped bridge the language gap) stayed in touch with us via email and met us at the train station in Meiringen when we arrived. (We were her first American visitor and she spoke little English). They were absolutely delightful and Ruth came alive when Wayne tried to communicate to her with his Pennsylvanian Dutch and broken high German. We had a 15min car ride "upstairs" - as they refer to the mountains - to our cabin, stopping roadside to see her goats along the way! We pulled into a quiet, wooded lane where we parked and carried our luggage a couple 100 feet along a cobblestone path to our cabin hidden in the woods. It was the most adorable little rustic cabin looking over a gorgeous view of the mountains and town below. It was formerly a farm shed that Ruth and her husband fixed up into an incredibly cozy accommodation. It was extremely well done and cozy inside, with modern furnishings and full kitchen with rustic touches. Wollhaus translates to Wool House, as they incorporated their love for sheep farming into the bones of the house including wool insulation, pillows and blankets, house slippers and decor. She left us a lovely gift in the fridge, a paper wrapped wedge of cheese from her sons dairy cow. There was a bus stop right outside our lane (3 min walk) that went down to Meiringen where we could catch the train to anywhere we needed to go. The bus does not run late in the evening, so I would recommend getting any food you need in town before you come up. We caught a taxi up one night when we came in later - it is easy to get one, as there are generally a couple sitting outside of train station.We ended up spending good amounts of quality time here because it was so quiet and beautiful. I will let the pictures tell the rest...
. . . i n t e r l a k e n
We spent a leisurely afternoon in Interlaken (the adventure capital of Switzerland) on our second day. We had booked paragliding flights however the weather was quite overcast so it was cancelled due to visibility. (This is an activity I would recommend booking beforehand as spots fill up fast. Our guide offered to reschedule us for the next day to honor our booking but because we had other plans we passed). We later decided, if we planned it again, we would much prefer doing it from Murren (above Lautterbrunnen) where we saw others paragliding through the scenic mountain valleys which looked completely invigorating (the view from where you see us eating lunch below).
Otherwise, we enjoyed a lovely lunch at Schuh Café in the outdoor terrace overlooking the park where paragliders took off. We shared fondue and potatoes (Which is a mixture of Swiss cheese and wine in case you needed more encouragement to try), Wayne had fresh, local Liver with mushroom sauce (which he said was the best he ever had), and I , Beef encased in a flaky pastry with mushroom sauce. It was divine. The town of Interlaken is a charming little city if you enjoy walking through shops . It has more international names and higher priced goods than smaller towns as it is very much tourist oriented and heavily trafficked. If we weren't coming here for something in particular, I think I would've been ok skipping it in preference for a smaller town with local goods and a more authentic experience like the villages above Lautterbrunnen (just a short train ride from Interlaken). It was beautiful and fun though! 
e a r l y m o r n i n g h i k e . . .
Wayne and I both wanted to do a good hike here, we had been gearing up for it most of the summer. I had done a good amount of research on the most scenic hikes and highest peaks - but in the end we chose, by wonderful chance, to take the trail that ran right alongside our cabin. At this point in our travel, although we weren't doing things at a crazy fast pace or trying to see and do everything available, we felt pretty protective of our energy, wanting to take in the best of the culture but avoid the bustle of tourists as much as possible. Some may not mind that atmosphere, but for us, fighting crowds and viewing things in groups of loud foreigners very much took away from the experience. It can make you quite tired and grouchy on a long vacation like this as well. Although we did do some of these touristy things, we found that missing some of the big named sites in favor of smaller, quainter ones was much more rewarding! Saturday night we discovered a trail running alongside our cabin with a view of a beautiful peak and a few falls. We decided to get up early and start before daylight to get that majestic early morning view of the sun coming up over the mountains. This ended up being the best experience of our trip.
[ Swarzwaldalp Trail, Oberzwirgi to Swarzaldaph 3.5miles (7mi round trip) ]
The air was crisp and foggy when we started out with just a light view of the first peak (you can see below). We didn't know how far the trail would go but we discovered trail markers with the word "Wanderweg" to follow and knew there was a hotel with a restaurant at the top. We only passed a single person on the way up (catching the sunrise on video, he snapped the picture of us on the bridge), taking in the quiet, beautiful scenery all to ourselves. On the way down there were a few local bikers heading up, greeting "Guten Morgen" as they passed. We walked through beautiful farmland, little farming villages, fog lifting off of rivers and streams, with a better view of the peak as we got closer. You'll see a tractor in one photo. It's amazing how farmers graze their sheep and cows up in the mountains - some of them move into these little farm village homes during that time to care for them, others go up once a day (to milk cows) or once a week (to check sheep) from the village below (downstairs). It took us 2 hours to get to the top - Swarzwaldorph (4.3mi), where the scene was just being lit by the morning light - Absolutely stunning (you can see the picture with the two buildings & water mill - no filter used) (This is an ancient water powered saw mill). We later learned the trail is called "Spruce Trail" and runs from the town of Meiringen to Swarzwaldalp. You can start at various places, using the bus to get to where you want to begin. We recommended to take the trail along the Rosenlaui Gorge on the way to the top.
Like any early morning hike, it was invigorating. We felt a bit tired, but alive when we returned at only 9:30am and decided to walk down to the hotel just below us for breakfast.
. . . l a u t t e r b r u n n e n
M u r r e n + G i m m e w a l dSunday afternoon, after relaxing a bit from our hike we visited a couple quaint villages near Lautterbrunnen. Lautterbrunnen is located at the bottom of Shilthorn Mountain with several small villages along the mountainside that you can stop off at along a cable car ride. At the very top is a famous viewing deck (Piz Gloria, filmed in Sherlock Holmes) overlooking the highest peak in Switzerland (Jungfrau, as well as Eiger and more of the Swiss Skyline). We did not spend time in Lautterbrunnen (it was quite crowded), but took the cable car directly to Murren. (If you wanted to continue on to the Piz Gloria viewing deck, you would get off at Murren and walk to the end of the street through the village to catch another cable car). We had lunch here in Murren overlooking the valley; it was just stunning, then walked a small road to a neighboring town below; Gimmewald. The road had a beautiful open view of the mountains lined with farmers cows and their clinking bells (it's the most glorious sound, I included a video here so you can hear it). Gimmewald is a tiny farming village, where there are no motor vehicles and was such a fun experience. You'll likely run into farmers or several of their "honesty shops" where they sell local goods, trusting you to leave the money in a box. We got some ice cream made with local milk and chatted with a few farmers then took a cable car back to the bottom.
We picked up some steak at a meat market, cheese, bread & wine in Meiringen the day before to grill at the cabin for the evening. 
m e i r i n g e n . . .
w o o l s h o p & l o c a l c h e e s e & m e a tWe left our last morning in Switzerland for exploring the local town. After a relaxing morning in the cabin and several cups of coffee... we headed down. We stopped at a dairy and picked up a collection of chocolate to take home as well as some delicious Swiss cheese, yogurt and snacks (all made with milk from farmers in Meiringen)!
This morning we also met our host, Ruth who gave us a tour of her wool factory where she processes the wool from her sheep and sends it across the country to be made into beautiful products. She also had a lovely shop with handmade gifts from sheep wool & milk - I picked up some soap and a pair of cozy sockss! (Below you'll see some photos she shared with me of her and her families herd of sheep in the Alps).
Tip: Many family owned business in small Swiss towns take Mondays off as a retreat from being open on the weekends - if you want to plan around this.
Note: Below is a picture looking up into the woods/ mts. Just to the left of the waterfall there is a chalet (the small hotel we ate at). Our cabin was just above this chalet. 
I hope this small experience of our will inspire you to add Switzerland to your list of dream places to visit. Though it is surely a winter wonderland for skiers, we highly recommend it in summer.
t r a v e l r e f e r e n c e sHelpful Apps | SBB Mobile - Train/ Bus Schedules + Rome2rio Trip Planner (used this less than SBB) + Google Maps + (Your Airline App) + Google Translate
Lucerne | Cable Car to Mt. Pilatus, Cogwheel Train back
Accommodation | Wollhaus Oberzwirgi, Meiringen, Booking site - E-Domizil.com
Interlaken Restaraunt | Schuh Café
Hiking Trail | Spruce Trail, follow signs for Wanderweg (meaning trail) Starts at Meiringen, Ends at Swarzwaldalp (Oberzwirgi to Swarzwaldalp, 4 hours, 7mi round trip)
Lautterbrunnen | Cable Car to Murren, walk down to Gimmewald
Wool Shop | Wolreich Haslital in Meiringen. . . next up > p a r i s . . .